![]() ![]() When my alt went, the dash lights seemed to enjoy flickering when I first started the car, which was accompanied by VERY rough idle, which cleared as soon as the lights stopped flickering, as the alternator cleaned up it's act when warm. There are diodes in the circuit that decides to switch the lights on, and the A/C current can have a weird effect on diodes. (save for the actual batt light, which I have NEVER seen when my batt was low) I think the dash light bug has more to do with dirty A/C current leaking than it does low voltage. (though I have no idea if it will still do it's thing beyond 90,000, I don't see why it wouldn't. Resetting it is as easy as pushing a button, just in case you would like for the car to pester you every 30,000 miles to check the O2 sensor. The actuator that controls the sensor light is stationed inside the dash, near the glove box. Hilariously enough, the PO of my 87 found it necessary to yank out the dash and remove the light bulb I can't believe he didn't see the "Sensor light, unplug after 90,000 miles" tag dangling after he removed the drivers knee panel. It's a reminder light to change some emissions component. If your car has more miles than that, then it is unplugged. Again this may just be a coincidence, but it seems weird that our problems are very similar and mine stopped right after I fixed this.įYI- the "sensor" light you are describing is a mileage based light set to trigger at (if I remember correctly) 30,000 MI and 60,000 MI. it Mitsubishi Montero 1983-1993 Repair Manual. This distributor wira 1 5 injection, as one of the most practicing sellers here will totally be in the middle of the best options to review. The loss of an ECU ground may cause the Wira vdo ecu diagram 00. There were two black wires coming out of my ECU that ran into a electrical taped part, then split out into 3 wires. Ecu is a siemens sim4le, connectors 1/2/3/4/5. This crimp if it exists on the Z31 Harness would be I'm guessing on your top ECU plug, as the way the Z31 ECU sits in my 280ZX is basically upside down, or the plug closest to the little hole on the side to see the red/green leds. Also before I fixed the connection I was driving the car around in the daytime with everything off to see if it was a charging issue or something and it was doing the same thing, idiot lights were off while idling, but once I got above 1000 or so RPM they all came on, then would go off while idling. It could just be a weird coincidence though. They haven't come on sense, it's been a few days now, but still. After that my idiot lights stopped coming on. I had driving issues where when I'd shake the wiring harness it would run better.Īnyway I cut out the crimp, stripped the wires down, and made a newer, better connection for these grounds. I was clued in by a fellow Z driver that in the 280ZXT harness there was a crimp connector that Nissan had put in which had a tendency to go bad and cause grounding issues. I thought it was my charging system, but it didn't seem to have any problems running everything and my car would still continue to start up fine. Anyway I would start the car and it would idle real low and my idiot lights would be off, the second I revved it, turned the headlights on or basically did anything the dash would light up with all the idiot lights coming on. Then a month or two later it seemed like the issue came back with a vengeance. Anyway for a while my idiot lights would all start lighting up, after a while it stopped. I have an 83' 280ZXT, but I'm running the ECU/MAF combination from an 84' Z31T, which would be wired up very similarly to your 87. It could be a coincidence in the way that it went away. Any idea what this car would be worth considering it's problems? Could be a money pit.This is weird, because something very similar happened to me very recently. Is this a common problem? Anyone have any ideas what the problem is? He just put $600 worth of new BFG tires on it. Could it just be injectors or electronics? Exhausts are both burning black. I didn't drive it as I didn't believe him. Also says it smoothes out when you drive it. Claims he put Seafoam through it and it helped. I suspect he knows it's not a simple problem as he has been through an auto tech course. The owner jockeys cars, and I think he is trying to dump this one. The real problem is that upon starting it, it sounds like one or 2 cylinders are not firing at all. ![]() Would need some body work and a repaint to make right. is that original material/color? Plastic looks aged like it was outside. It looks like it may have been damaged and repaired right front as front hood gap narrows and paint has a different texture. Interior is good, but body has dings and bottom of front bumper is broken off but there. I found a 1990 300zx with manual trans and 59k. ![]()
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